The First of Many...

I was a little worried about telling people that I would be leaving because I didn't want my school or community to unnecessarily divert funds to an elaborate celebration which all too often Ghanaian culture demands.  So I mentioned my departure quietly and asked all the teachers and the headmaster to meet me in the staff common room so I could say a few things.

Anticipating my imminent departure the Aburaman Staff put together a little something for me and told me that the real celebration would be in a week.  Although, I am not holding my breath for any elaborate ceremony, I am looking forward to sharing one last ball of Fufu with my colleagues before I die in a tragic papercutting accident as a result of all the COS documents I need to get together.


Here are a few photos from our small ceremony, before the "Real SendOff":

Pearl Kwame hands off a gift to me on behalf of the Aburaman Staff

Ooo! What's inside?!

Lovely leather sandals made by the Leatherworking teacher, Batik fabric made by the students, and 6 yards of Kente Print fabric and some Mardi Gras beads(?!).  All such beautiful gestures of their appreciation and perfectly appropriate.

Stay tuned for details on next Wednesday, I made a point to mention that I would really like to "try" the Akpeteshie and beer means celebration in America.  We shall see.

Remember to Remember to Never forget

This post is written selfishly.  I know how easy it is to forget one place when you leave to another and although I know my memories of Abura Dunkwa will fade as I am confronted with the new life ahead of me, there are some friendly faces I simply never want to forget, even if that means posting pictures of them on a blog. 

 

Sam Paintsil, the school electrician but also a great support to me during my time here. He kept me stocked with Palm Oil, Plantain Bunches, and always did it with a smile.

Yaw is the owner/operator of Abura Dunkwa's biggest supermarket. He was always excited to see me and explain anything about which I was confused.

My trusty smoked fish seller. I bought those delicious fish from her at least twice a week and she was always helpful in trying to teach me Fante.

Two of my neighbors who always greeted me with warmth and smiles.  They took the time to speak Fante slowly to me helping me learn more than I could have learned on my own.

Best Egg Sandwich Man on Earth! I also bought bread and delicious peanut butter from him regularly too.

Roasted Corn for an afternoon snack. This lady was always a hoot.

There are a few people in Abura Dunkwa who have helped me and asked nothing in return.

Turns out Dogs CAN take Benedryl

Every night, when it is time for bed there is a process.  I straighten my sheets, I brush my teeth, and I kick Bella out of my bed- carrying her outside to the front porch.  The other night, nothing was different except the fact that a few minutes later I hear a small yelp and the sound of a 22lb dog violently shaking her head. I peel myself out of bed to discover Bella has been bit by (or has eaten) something she is extremely allergic too. 

I rushed her into the house and washed her face of in case she has been spat at by a Cobra (this is much more common than you think).  Not that I believe water would do anything to save her after getting Cobra venom in her eye, but it was irrationally rational.  Needless to say, she was freaking out.

 I could see her face rapidly swelling and knew I needed to do something fast before her tiny little nose holes closed up, so I did what any seasoned PCV would do- I called someone with access to the internet to look up whether Dogs can take Benedryl.  I use it when i get nasty spider bites that prevent me from moving my ankle so, hey why wouldn't it work on a dog with an allergic reaction.  It turns out they can (Thanks Dad!)- 1mg/1lb every 8hours seems to be the ratio although I am not a vet.

I mashed some Benedryl into a banana and forced it down her throat. Within 5 minutes she was completely passed out; a completely understandable reaction to taking 20mg of Benedryl.  I let her sleep in my bed so I could keep an eye on her and just made sure she was breathing.  I took a picture of her face after some of the swelling had gone down but imagine her having a cartoon goofy nose with both her eyes swollen shut.  Poor lil' thing. 

Here is a little before and after comparison:

Before the bite

After having been biten

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Luckily the Benedryl worked wonders and Bella is right as rain. Just a little scary adventure for a late Tuesday Night.

Some things will not be missed

Like for example, doing laundry by hand!  I remember being excited at doing my first load of laundry (pictured below) and posting it on this blog 2 years ago.  Well, folks enough of that green-shooted enthusiasm is all used up. I can't wait for washers and driers!

From the First Load

To the Last Load

I love the Library

Abura Dunkwa Community Library

 I'd like to remember is the Abura Dunkwa Community Library.  It offered me sanctuary from the busyness of the Aburaman Administrative block as well as an opportunity to hang out with kids who were actually interested in learning.  Whether it was quietly reading my own books or helping an Elementary School student pick out a book for herself, this place deserves some recognition.  As does the wonderful Librarian (also a neighbor of mine) who always greeted me with a smile, helped me to organize some book donations, and was eager to promote the importance of reading for children.  With a few suggestions here and there, she was able to organize some after-school reading  programs for the Primary Kids. 

Me and the Head Librarian

Communication Gurus

There have been two Abura Dunkwaians that have helped me immensely stay in touch with friends and family the world wide.  The first, Collins at the Abura Dunkwa Community Information Communication Center who helped me out with internet connectivity whenever I needed it and the second, the friendliest Muslim in Abura Dunkwa, Abu Never, my phone credit dealer.  I couldn't possibly leave A.D. without giving thanks to their support and remembering their faces with some pictures.

Collins hard at work in his office, as usual

Abu Never and I in front of his Phone Shop

As both Collins and Abu are avid computer/internet users so I am hoping they will read this post and see their pictures proudly posted and know how much I really did appreciate their help when I needed it.

Ode to Kenkey

In addition to Banku, on my "Foods to Miss" List is Accra or Ga Kenkey.  Everyday after school for nearly the last two years I've stopped by Abena (yeah, we are both Tuesday-borns so we've got the same kick ass Ghanaian name) for some Kenkey, Pepe, Okra, and Fish.  Let's call it the Bay Area equivalent of the nearest Taco Truck.  She is reliably present and always greets me with a smile and some piping hot balls of fermented corn. 

Abena, you will be missed and your kenkey too:

Abena and I enjoying our goodbyes

This is a detail of how Kenkey is eaten

Ode to Banku

Sweet sweet nectar of life

Food is a defining element of any experience and my time in Ghana has been no different. The Ghanaian cuisine has made me laugh (at its simplicity) cry (at its scalding temperatures), but I'd say we've had a good run, pun intended.

As I start to day dream about what life will be like back in America my mind keep drifting to the conundrum of "Where the Hell am I supposed to get my daily Banku Fix?"  It's a problem-o.  I'll buy a box or two of the "Neat Banku"- the add water and stir dealio, but let's be honest. No one does Banku in Abura Dunkwa like Sister Eresi.

Upon realizing my impending Banku withdrawls, I headed straight to the best Banku spot in town to take some photos which I can cry over when I'm sitting in front a of a bowl of salad and grilled salmon (wait, that doesn't sound so bad...hmmmm).

Eresi, posing at her Banku Station

Scooping the tasty goo into a bowl for me!

After July 13th, I may never order 5000 Banku w/ 4000 Fish ever again.  Which is somehow something to be mourned.

Burned

Considering the majority of my blogging has been picture-centric, I feel a little odd writing this.  But in an effort to pre-re-integrate with my native people, I'll allow this post to be Almost entirely self-indulgent.

Nearing the end of service has been to say the least an emotional roller coaster.  I'm not sad, I'm not glad, I'm not excited, I'm not relaxed. In fact, it is hard to articulate quite what's been going on in my mind the last few weeks. I don't want to miss opportunities to see friends I may not see for a very long time, but I'm craving the solace required for reflection.  I am happy to be leaving the scathing coarseness of Ghana and that crueldeaf (I'm guessing) lady who lives behind my house and play Gospel music at all hours, but sad to leave a loyal four-legged confidant (and a few humans) behind. 

I need to start packing.  I hate packing.  I want to get rid of all this stuff that somehow accumulated in my house over the last two years but I don't want to have to go buy new stuff when I return.  With nothing to do, and a couple weeks left to go, in need of some closure- I lit a fire. Not a metaphysical, spiritual, or metaphorical one. A big ole fashioned fire to burn everything I could find, save my COS packet which I will need to get outta here. I know, carbon credits, air pollution, the worst kind. But I figure somehow my volunteer work karmically balances the damage I did the air today.

The fire burned for a couple hours. I didn't realize I had so much stuff. Plastic burns slow and black. When the smoke finally cleared, I was left again with a moldy shell of a house (approximately).  No stacks of Dusty (and often times useless) Peace Corps Handouts under my bed. No filled up notebooks with eager notes from my training days on my book shelves. No "How to Be the Best Damn PCV Ever Manual" (which hasn't been updated since 1970). No molded bottles of palm oil.  No Teacher's notebooks with the skeletons of fail lessons plans still creaking inside. And no half checked lists of things that I should have, could have, and did not do.  Just a clean bookshelf, empty drawers, and a feeling that no matter what comes next, I'm ready.  I did what I could. 

When the smoke cleared and the chickens started their endless pecking in the garbage pit again a heavy rain came, I snuggled into my bedraggled bed (which in my fiery passion almost opted to burn as well) and fell into deep dreamless afternoon nap. 

I'm not necessarily happy to see the final stitches sewn on this experience but I sure am happy to have less baggage to take with me on my next stop.

Random pictures I ferreted out on the internet to entertain the illiterates (read...fans under 4 years old) who probably view my blog religiously, hoping for more pictures of puppies:

Random African tending some burning garbage

Trying to get my point across visually

Chicken eating garbage

Can't disappoint the Puppy fans.

Celebratory Gift

A Real Baobab

I closed my Bank Account in Ghana today, thus bringing me one step closer to the realization that on July 13th (just a few weeks away), I will actually be leaving this place. In celebration and to get rid of some of the surplus cash I found myself buzzing around Accra with, I stopped off at the best place to blow money in Ghana- Hakim Jewelers.  I was in need (read...want) of a talisman to get me through these next few weeks. 

After two separate visits and several hours I picked out a nice little sterling silver Baobab pendant. Though, we only have one Baobab that I've found in Abura Dunkwa (they do better in the drier regions), planting and eating Baobab seeds with friends has become somewhat of a memorable experience during my service.  A sacred Baobab will be planted at the KSO on July 3rd when they unveil the new murals.  I plan to engrave my dates of service on the back as soon as I have access to a Dremel, thank you Jeanine Payer Inc. for teaching me that skill. 

The Baobab Pendant from Hakim

The Pig Roast

One of the many last hurrahs.  I'm really going to miss the drop-everything-and-come-to-a-Pig-Roast mentality that has been pounded into my brain like fufu at 4pm.  Here are some pictures from a most successful Pig Roast.  It was beautifully planned executed and the pig was delicious:

Tinfoiled and slow roasting

Preparing Vegetables for the Omnivores among

I call the Snout!

Nearly ready!

We ate the pig so fast there was only time to take pictures of the veggies.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another Day, Another KSO Mural

Okay. This is the last one.  One of my many contributions to Peace Corps Ghana's ICT ThinkTank.

Again, pictures of the work as it progresses:

Alex and I marking out the bricks

 

More of the same...




Finished Detail




Maybe my favorite of all KSO murals

 

 Contributors: Matt, Becky, Alex, and Myself.

KSO Murals Continue

One terrific mural down, one big white wall to go. This time we had to come up with our own ideas. Given that it is the 50th Anniversary of Peace Corps' presence in Ghana, we thought we'd honor those who got it all started. Kennedy and Nkrumah. We whipped up a few postage stamp looking things and put a nice world tree map with a tasteful 50th logo to boot.

Take a look at the process:

Alex and Matt working hard

Adding yellow to Kennedy's face

Progressing nicely

Voila! Notice the 1961 reference.

Nkrumah Stamp

Kennedy Stamp

A job well done.

KSO Mural Final Draft

This is the finished product:  

Full View

Detail

KSO Murals-Rough Drafts

So, I blame Becky (and a stomach virus) but somehow I got suckered into painting a whole bevy of murals at the KSO (Kumasi Sub Office) these last few days. A good time was had by all (after the stomach virus subsided) and I think on the whole, we did a serious kick ass job.

Here are some pictures of the first one on progress: