And then it was time to go...

I think Italo Calvino says it well in this particular case:

"Arriving at each new city, the traveler finds again a past of his that he did not know he had: the foreignness of what you no longer are or no longer possess lies in wait for you in foreign, unpossessed places."

...Or familiar ones for that matter. 

Resist Much. Obey Little

I've found a lot of comfort in the books I've read during my service.  They are too numerous to count and I wouldn't want to boast about the quantity without mention of quality anyway.  Needless to say, reading and reflection have been a crucial element of my personal time in my community.  It was the reason I got involved with the library.

As I was loading up the last bag to be taken to my Community Library for donation today, I stumbled upon Whitman's Preface to Leaves of Grass.  While "Leaves of Grass" itself is immense a quick scan of "The Preface to Leaves of Grass" offered me some words that although read before, this time around had particular resonance. I realize these particular words may be overused and in fact I remember a roommate of mine in college even had a poster with the verse, but regardless I don't think have been cheapened and I certainly don't think they ring any less true.  Whitman writes:

"This is what you shall do; Love the earth and sun and the animals, despise riches, give alms to every one that asks, stand up for the stupid and crazy, devote your income and labor to others, hate tyrants, argue not concerning God, have patience and indulgence toward the people, take off your hat to nothing known or unknown or to any man or number of men, go freely with powerful uneducated persons and with the young and with the mothers of families, read these leaves in the open air every season of every year of your life, re-examine all you have been told at school or church or in any book, dismiss whatever insults your own soul, and your very flesh shall be a great poem and have the richest fluency not only in its words but in the silent lines of its lips and face and between the lashes of your eyes and in every motion and joint of your body."


 I think, as I slowly take my backward steps towards a country I once knew well and shared aspirations and ideals with, I will keep these words in mind and never give up the process of re-examination and struggling to maintain a great poem.

And then it was over...

Indeed a lovely parting party for me sponsored and organized by my friends and colleagues at Aburaman Senior Secondary School did come on as scheduled.  I was able to finally donate my bicycle, two chairs (for the nursing mothers of the school), a laptop, a portable DVD player, a 35mm Camera, amongst many other useful items to improve both our ICT lab and our Visual Arts department.  It was both a joyous and sad occasion as we realized that come next week, I would no longer be seen bustling about Abura Dunkwa on my bicycle.  For every ounce of generosity I have directed at this school, it has come back tenfold and I couldn't possible be lying when I say, I will truly miss Aburaman and Abura Dunkwa. 

Nothing says farewell like Minerals....

And Meat Pies for the whole faculty and staff!

Ms. Anku presenting me with one of a nearly a trillion going away gifts.

Distributing various gifts to faculty members in the Visual Arts, Science, ICT, and Math departments

Jesu, a crucial resource person in Abura Dunkwa and myself

Abaidoo Jr. and me, the entire ICT department!

One last picture with the staff (only about 50% are present)

Christmas in July! Nearly every member of the Aburaman faculty and staff showed their appreciation with a beautifully wrapped parting gift.  Rest Assure I took countless pictures which will be turned into thank you cards to be mailed when I return.

Some of the booty included: 12 yards of real Kente, 16 yards of batik, 2 pairs of my very own Chief sandals, bracelets, and more Kente strips!  I was completely and totally overwhelmed by the generosity of my fellow teachers and staff!

I am completely and totally grateful to all of the time and energy this community has invested in me and I hope that I have somehow offered them an even exchange. 

4th of July in review

This is really an ode to Hideout a place I've come to know and love extensively over the last few years. It was nice to spend Independence day eating burgers and watching the waves come in.  Happy 4th of July to all my family and friends back home, see you in just 9 more days!

A little piece of heaven on Earth

2 cedi Pineapple of comparable size to Arjun's ginormous head

Napping on the beach with a puppy named, "Nobody is Cool"

Slack lining with the Brits on Independence Day

Fear Not, America has EVERYTHING!

This is a miracle website in my book. It turns out all those woes about never eating Kenkey or Banku again have been mitigated by some good ol' fashioned American entrepreneurship. A company based in Virgina can mail me in 5 days or less all the Ghanaian chop I need/want/crave.  There are 12 packs of Ga Kenkey for just $27.50, including shipping!  I understand the price is highly inflated but it might be worth it one of those dark Ghanaian food-less days, that is if they ever come.

Ga Kenkey!

Banku Flour Mix!

Smoked Tilapia

Ghana grown Yams!

And a grinding bowl to grind your own Pepe!

God Bless America!

Republic Day!

 

July 1st is Ghana's Republic Day similar to our Independence Day which I will also be celebrating in just a few days!   Last year 2010 was the 50th Anniversary of Ghana's Republichood and I realized I didn't even make a mention of it.  Here is a picture from the celebrations that went on in Abura Dunkwa.  This year is a lot less rowdy but a brass band is playing and some big men in shiny suits are definitely giving long-winded speeches in true Ghanaian fashion.  Happy Republic Day to ALL!

A picture from Abura Dunkwa's 50th Republic Day celebration 2010!

Ghana Flag

The First of Many...

I was a little worried about telling people that I would be leaving because I didn't want my school or community to unnecessarily divert funds to an elaborate celebration which all too often Ghanaian culture demands.  So I mentioned my departure quietly and asked all the teachers and the headmaster to meet me in the staff common room so I could say a few things.

Anticipating my imminent departure the Aburaman Staff put together a little something for me and told me that the real celebration would be in a week.  Although, I am not holding my breath for any elaborate ceremony, I am looking forward to sharing one last ball of Fufu with my colleagues before I die in a tragic papercutting accident as a result of all the COS documents I need to get together.


Here are a few photos from our small ceremony, before the "Real SendOff":

Pearl Kwame hands off a gift to me on behalf of the Aburaman Staff

Ooo! What's inside?!

Lovely leather sandals made by the Leatherworking teacher, Batik fabric made by the students, and 6 yards of Kente Print fabric and some Mardi Gras beads(?!).  All such beautiful gestures of their appreciation and perfectly appropriate.

Stay tuned for details on next Wednesday, I made a point to mention that I would really like to "try" the Akpeteshie and beer means celebration in America.  We shall see.

Remember to Remember to Never forget

This post is written selfishly.  I know how easy it is to forget one place when you leave to another and although I know my memories of Abura Dunkwa will fade as I am confronted with the new life ahead of me, there are some friendly faces I simply never want to forget, even if that means posting pictures of them on a blog. 

 

Sam Paintsil, the school electrician but also a great support to me during my time here. He kept me stocked with Palm Oil, Plantain Bunches, and always did it with a smile.

Yaw is the owner/operator of Abura Dunkwa's biggest supermarket. He was always excited to see me and explain anything about which I was confused.

My trusty smoked fish seller. I bought those delicious fish from her at least twice a week and she was always helpful in trying to teach me Fante.

Two of my neighbors who always greeted me with warmth and smiles.  They took the time to speak Fante slowly to me helping me learn more than I could have learned on my own.

Best Egg Sandwich Man on Earth! I also bought bread and delicious peanut butter from him regularly too.

Roasted Corn for an afternoon snack. This lady was always a hoot.

There are a few people in Abura Dunkwa who have helped me and asked nothing in return.

Turns out Dogs CAN take Benedryl

Every night, when it is time for bed there is a process.  I straighten my sheets, I brush my teeth, and I kick Bella out of my bed- carrying her outside to the front porch.  The other night, nothing was different except the fact that a few minutes later I hear a small yelp and the sound of a 22lb dog violently shaking her head. I peel myself out of bed to discover Bella has been bit by (or has eaten) something she is extremely allergic too. 

I rushed her into the house and washed her face of in case she has been spat at by a Cobra (this is much more common than you think).  Not that I believe water would do anything to save her after getting Cobra venom in her eye, but it was irrationally rational.  Needless to say, she was freaking out.

 I could see her face rapidly swelling and knew I needed to do something fast before her tiny little nose holes closed up, so I did what any seasoned PCV would do- I called someone with access to the internet to look up whether Dogs can take Benedryl.  I use it when i get nasty spider bites that prevent me from moving my ankle so, hey why wouldn't it work on a dog with an allergic reaction.  It turns out they can (Thanks Dad!)- 1mg/1lb every 8hours seems to be the ratio although I am not a vet.

I mashed some Benedryl into a banana and forced it down her throat. Within 5 minutes she was completely passed out; a completely understandable reaction to taking 20mg of Benedryl.  I let her sleep in my bed so I could keep an eye on her and just made sure she was breathing.  I took a picture of her face after some of the swelling had gone down but imagine her having a cartoon goofy nose with both her eyes swollen shut.  Poor lil' thing. 

Here is a little before and after comparison:

Before the bite

After having been biten

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Luckily the Benedryl worked wonders and Bella is right as rain. Just a little scary adventure for a late Tuesday Night.

Some things will not be missed

Like for example, doing laundry by hand!  I remember being excited at doing my first load of laundry (pictured below) and posting it on this blog 2 years ago.  Well, folks enough of that green-shooted enthusiasm is all used up. I can't wait for washers and driers!

From the First Load

To the Last Load

I love the Library

Abura Dunkwa Community Library

 I'd like to remember is the Abura Dunkwa Community Library.  It offered me sanctuary from the busyness of the Aburaman Administrative block as well as an opportunity to hang out with kids who were actually interested in learning.  Whether it was quietly reading my own books or helping an Elementary School student pick out a book for herself, this place deserves some recognition.  As does the wonderful Librarian (also a neighbor of mine) who always greeted me with a smile, helped me to organize some book donations, and was eager to promote the importance of reading for children.  With a few suggestions here and there, she was able to organize some after-school reading  programs for the Primary Kids. 

Me and the Head Librarian

Communication Gurus

There have been two Abura Dunkwaians that have helped me immensely stay in touch with friends and family the world wide.  The first, Collins at the Abura Dunkwa Community Information Communication Center who helped me out with internet connectivity whenever I needed it and the second, the friendliest Muslim in Abura Dunkwa, Abu Never, my phone credit dealer.  I couldn't possibly leave A.D. without giving thanks to their support and remembering their faces with some pictures.

Collins hard at work in his office, as usual

Abu Never and I in front of his Phone Shop

As both Collins and Abu are avid computer/internet users so I am hoping they will read this post and see their pictures proudly posted and know how much I really did appreciate their help when I needed it.

Ode to Kenkey

In addition to Banku, on my "Foods to Miss" List is Accra or Ga Kenkey.  Everyday after school for nearly the last two years I've stopped by Abena (yeah, we are both Tuesday-borns so we've got the same kick ass Ghanaian name) for some Kenkey, Pepe, Okra, and Fish.  Let's call it the Bay Area equivalent of the nearest Taco Truck.  She is reliably present and always greets me with a smile and some piping hot balls of fermented corn. 

Abena, you will be missed and your kenkey too:

Abena and I enjoying our goodbyes

This is a detail of how Kenkey is eaten

Ode to Banku

Sweet sweet nectar of life

Food is a defining element of any experience and my time in Ghana has been no different. The Ghanaian cuisine has made me laugh (at its simplicity) cry (at its scalding temperatures), but I'd say we've had a good run, pun intended.

As I start to day dream about what life will be like back in America my mind keep drifting to the conundrum of "Where the Hell am I supposed to get my daily Banku Fix?"  It's a problem-o.  I'll buy a box or two of the "Neat Banku"- the add water and stir dealio, but let's be honest. No one does Banku in Abura Dunkwa like Sister Eresi.

Upon realizing my impending Banku withdrawls, I headed straight to the best Banku spot in town to take some photos which I can cry over when I'm sitting in front a of a bowl of salad and grilled salmon (wait, that doesn't sound so bad...hmmmm).

Eresi, posing at her Banku Station

Scooping the tasty goo into a bowl for me!

After July 13th, I may never order 5000 Banku w/ 4000 Fish ever again.  Which is somehow something to be mourned.